So what's El Hierro like then?

The place we are in, you could hardly call it a town, is La Restinga. It is a popular scuba diving base with several companies operating from here. There are a couple of low rise rental apartment blocks Apparently divers have to stay close to sea level for 12 hours after a dive and the road curves steeply upwards from here to the next village. There are a few streets with several bars and cafes, 3 restaurants and 2 small supermarkets but that's it. There is, however, a beach in town with good facilities and locals (and us) make good use of it.

The population of El Hierro is less than that of a small English town and the capital, Valverde, is a very small town indeed .Most of the coastline consists of very steep cliffs and this is one of the few easily accessible shorelines. The top of the island reminds us a bit of north Yorkshire with cacti. It is very different from the other island with pine forests, dry stone walls, fields, cows and sheep!

We walked down footpaths from the next village and enjoyed wild figs straight from the tree. There are also some spectacular views, particularly from the high cliffs on the other side of the island looking down to the coast. We walked from San Andres on this side, up to the Mirador Jinama.

Then we walked down to the coast below - a fantastic walk with amazing views but very

A couple of days later we went to gaze at the same view but this time from the Mirador de la Pena. This mirador was designed by Cesar Manrique, the Lanzarote born artist whose work we have come to really admire. This mirador has a cafe/restaurant in a Manrique - designed building with huge windows, artwork and landscaped walks enabling one to see the view from a variety of aspects.

Having viewed the coastline from above, the next step was to walk the coastal path. Fortunately, a boardwalk has been created to protect the lava landscape, which makes it a lot easier on the feet

We had planned to cool off in the natural pools. but, unfortunately it was high tide and the Atlantic breakers were crashing into these pools. We had been warned against swimming in them at high water and we could see why.

There was a swimming pool (chlorinated) at the end of the walk so we did have a cooling swim - though one that was not nearly as much fun as the earlier one. had promised. 

Also along this stretch of coast was The Museo Ecologico de Guinea, which we had visited a few days earlier. This consisted of some stone houses replicating the way of life on El Hierro up to the 1970's. It was also an access point for a tour of some lava caverns and a chance to see some of the island's giant lizards. These lizards were thought to be extinct but theywere re-discovered in the 1980's and have been successfully re-introduced to the island. So far almost 300 have been released into the wild, although they are preyed upon by the abundant population of kestrels. Scruffbag and I were expecting enormous beasts but in the end they turned out to be just quite big,

So now we have just over a week here before we set sail for Sal in the Cape Verdes. At over 700 miles and around a week at sea it will be my longest sail so far. While El Hierro is hardly a shoppers' paradise (indeed I often wonder how the islanders manage to dress so well and furnish their homes etc), I am sure it will seem like a paradise once we get further south. We intend to stock up for the sail and to buy some advance treats for Christmas, when we will probably be on a small island off the coast of Brazil. We will also do some walking in the pine forests and try to see the less populated side of the island before we leave.

Off to the end of the world

Actually to El Hierro --- Before Columbus sailed to America, it was thought that El Hierro was the end of the world and that if you went south you would fall off the edge!

So we left Garachico in very light winds, heading for La Gomera, where we would fill up with diesel and stay for 2 nights before  going to El Hierro for a few weeks. We did not mind motoring as San Sebastian deLa Gomera is only 27 miles from Garrachico and we wanted to get moving. The main was up, the engine on and the autohelm was steering.

Now one thing the Canary Islands are known for is acceleration zones. These are stretches where the wind funnels down valleys or between islands or round headlands. We were coming up to a headland and the wind began to increase, at times getting up to 20 knots so we turned off the engine and sailed under main alone, thinking that it was probably an acceleration zone and would not last. It was very gusty, at times getting to 30 knots and the autohelm was starting to goof out so we took turns hand steering. After about an hour (and once we had rounded the headland and were laying a course for La Gomera) the wind dropped off and we soon had our 5 knots back again. Such fun.

It was good to spend a day in San Sebastion, which has gained a couple of trendy fashion outlets since we were there last December, and it was great to swim off the town beach and to buy gas for only 15 euros. But all good things must come to an end and we were soon up with the dawn and heading to El Hierro, our last Canary Island. We had lots of strong gusts of wind as we set off; they were coming from the mountains of La Gomera. Once we had cleared the island and left the acceleration zone, the wind again dropped to zilch so we had to motor in the hot sun looking back on a view of El Tiede in the morning clouds.

This time we almost caught a fish. Scruffbag was down below resting and I heard the line whirring. I looked round and saw a fish on the end of the line leaping out of the water. I immediately shouted for Scruffbag as I am as much use as a chocolate fireguard where fishing is concerned. Unfortunately, however, it was "the one that got away" as by the time he reeled the line in, the fish had gone.

By late afternoon we were getting close to El Hierro and once again the wind piped up as we entered yet another acceleration zone. We had to keep going until we were due north of La Restinga harbour as there is a reef just outside the entrance. That done, we entered the harbour, to find that Puertos Canarios' booking system had, for the only time in our experience, actually worked and there was a security guard waiting to take our lines. Raoul  dealt with the paperwork, sorted the keys and gave us a bill which was ready prepared for us to pay at the bank after the weekend.

Hello El Hierro

Garachico and then on

Back in Garachico on the Sunday, we looked forward to the arrival of our friends Sue and Mally on Tuesday. They planned to spend a week with us so we had postponed planned visits to El Tiede and  La Oratava so that we could go together.
The centre of La Oratava is a historical gem with streets of historical buildings, some dating back to the 16th century.

We also managed to get Mally (a notorious late sleeper) to rise early enough to catch the one daily bus from Puerto de la Cruz to the cable car at the base of EL Tiede's summit, Unfortunately the only time slot available was 20 minutes after the one return bus of the day left at 16.00. As it turned out, the cable car was later stopped for the day due to strong winds. I would have left the other 3 to make the trip in any case as cable cars are not my idea of fun. Instead we enjoyed a picnic lunch and a walk around the weird rock formations and the bus journey itself, which took us above the sea of clouds, was worth making.

A trip to the neighbouring town of Icod  with a visit to the overpriced  museum and the excellent butterfly house, a couple of swims in the saltwater pools and a very good meal in our favourite local restaurant and their visit was over and we were waving goodbye and promising to do it again soon.

 Once more on our own, we walked steeply uphill one day to the next small village with amazing views of Garachico en route.

Then it was time for the rigger and his co- workers to arrive and shorten our roller reefing  gear. They did an excellent job and the company in France who carried out the original work of fitting the gear have agreed to foot the bill.

Sunday was my birthday so another walk was in order. This time up a gorge, down the mountainside (unfortunately too much road work on this section) then along the coast. Then back to Garachico in time for another meal at the favourite place (with free lemon liquers thrown in as a treat).

Monday saw us in the capital, Santa Cruz, where we had to sign out from Europe. Although we planned a brief visit to La Gomera and a few weeks on El Hierro, neither island offers signing out facilities. Signing out was straightforward but unfortunately at some point in the morning I lost our shared mobile phone. Hours of revisiting places and practising my improving Spanish proved pointless so we had lots of people to inform via messanger and e mail and we have now invested in a pay as you go phone with no data. Data on the phone would be too expensive after El Hierro in any case but none the less it is frustrating. Still we have a laptop and a tablet and internet cafes now and then.

So goodbye Garachico, you restored my faith in Tenerife but we were lucky to escape cockroach free since they were around on the pontoons and we had to spray ropes and wires and 2 managed to make it on board where they met a very swift end.

To the UK and back

We left Garachico on a Thursday morning and travelled across the island by bus to the airport, arriving in Luton at midnight. After a long taxi ride we finally made it to Heather's house in Hornchurch around 1-30 am. It was brilliant to see both of our daughters and their families looking well and happy.

We also enjoyed a great day in London with our friends Liz and Nick, who came up from Somerset to meet with us and visit Borough market and enjoy one of the free exhibitions at The Tate Modern.

After a very enjoyable week, a lot of it spent looking after our delightful, happy and ever smiling granddaughter, Freya, it was time to take the train up north. 

We spent a great week with the oldest member of the family, Scruffbag's mother, Pam, who was fast approaching 90. We spent the day of her birthday along with some of Scruffbag's siblings and their families, in Whitby, on the north Yorkshire coast. This is an old childhood haunt of mine and a place where Scruffbag and his family spent many happy holidays.

We were also treated to a fantastic meal in a lovely setting by my brother and his family on the Thursday. On Friday we went to Saltburn, where I was born and where Scruffbag and I lived for many years when we first met, to stay with our friends Sue and Mally. The next day was party day. The whole family assembled at The Cleveland Tontine for Pam's birthday celebrations - a very posh high tea.

With speech by David Shallow and a chance for a photo of the oldest and youngest members of the family.

Then it was back to Saltburn for fish and chips followed by a pint on the seafront

Another train journey the following day and our final week in London with the girls. Again we looked after Freya and again it was a pleasure and a privilege. Wednesday was her first birthday and Heather took the day of work and the four of us went for a picnic in Upminster Park followed by a visit to the ice cream parlour.

Our friends, Brian and Yvonne made the trip down from Colchester on Thursday to see us and we had a good time catching up. Good to see them looking so well.

The celebrations for Freya's birthday were held on the Saturday in Heather's garden with an amazing cake made by our eldest granddaughter, Lauren, and her boyfriend, Jake and lots of babies enjoying the garden toys and their parents enjoying socialising.

oys.

A great day which lasted well into the night. All too soon it was time to say goodbye to family the next day and fly back to Garachico - a very sad time as on the next phase of our travels it may be a long time before we see them again. Thank goodness for Skype but it is not the same.