And then Sao Vicente

We left Sao Nicolau  following two big cats, al three of usl heading in the same directio - to Mindelo Sao Vicente. Although we were going to anchor in the bay, Sao Vicente boasts the only (and hence very expensive) marina in the archipeligo. Both the ARC rally and the French Isles De Deux Soleils rally would be in residence so we were expecting a full anchorage.

We had a reef in the main, about 18 knots of wind on the beam and very big seas. I felt very queasy but luckily was not actually sick. At one point, I was doused by a very big wave and had to completely change clothes. We also had to hand steer all the way as Scruffbag had not tightened up the line on the windvane and she refused to steer (beam reaches are never her preferred point of sail in any case  unless the sails are set perfectly).

We arrived in Mindelo and were anchored by 15-45. The anchorage was, as predicted, very busy and we were too late to go ashore and sign in as the office shut at 16-00. The paperwork was duly completed the next day and we were free to explore.

It costs 3000 cape verdean escudes (about £26 ) to tie up the dinghy to the marina pontoon for 18 days but this includes the rubbish collection. Mindelo is far more cosmopolitan than towns on the other islands we have visited and there is a growing middle class, although there is still evidence of poverty. There are lots of colonial buildings and lots of shops and restaurants. There is a great fish market with half a kilo of fresh tuna at 200 eacudos, and a vegetable market and women selling sweet cakes and fish patties they have made at home. Local fishermen regularly fish around the anchored boats for small sardines.

We spent a couple of evenings with Richard and Jane, whom we had met in Sao Nicolau, before they left for the Caribbean. We also met up with Alex, whom we had met in El Hierro and who is heading to Africa. On Scruffbag's birthday we went to Calhau, a small fishing village which boasts a restaurant which only opens on Sunday, plays live music and offers an "all you can eat" Cape Verdean buffet which was truly delicious.

We also managed to get out and get some exercise. The town boasts a lovely white sand beach, which is steeply shelving but good for swimming and we also climbed to the high point of Monte Verde behind Mindelo, which is a national park and offers stunning views of this island and views over the 3 smaller islands between here and Sao Nicolau.

We also visited Baia Das Gatas, a pretty bay with a shallow, sheltered swimming lagoon. However, it was rather too set up for tourists and the one cafe had dirty toilets and charged very high prices.

We wanted to see the island of Santo Antao before we left as it was said to be the most beautiful of the Cape Verdes. We were unable to visit in our own boat as the anchorages are reputedly lacking in shelter so we went on the ferry and hired a car and driver for the day. The island's reputation is well deserved . It is stunning. Photographs just cannot do this verdant, magnificant mountain landscape justice. The island also grows sugar cane and we visited a distillery which produces grogue, the strong spirit of the islands.

So for now we are almost at the end of our travels in the Cape Verdes. Maybe one day we will return and walk the lush mountains and valleys of Santo Antao but for now the compass points to Barbados.

Sal to San Nicolau

We left Sal just after 11a.m. on 30th October with between 12 and 17 knots of wind just aft of the beam, It was very rolly but we romped along. By 5-30 we had spotted Sau Nicolau and by 9 we had a second reef in the main as the wind increased. We hove to at 3-45 a.m. as we were very close to our destination and did not want to enter the anchorage in the dark.. We started the engine at dawn and by 8-35 were anchored in the bay.

There were only 2 other boats at anchor in the pretty bay and, after sorting the boat out, we set off for the harbour to check in with the maritime police. This time we tied up to the fish quay, though after that first day we went ashore on the beach as the quay was a bit difficult to get into the dinghy from and they were prone to moving the dinghies when fishing boats arrived.

On arrival on the beach, a group of young boys would arrive all eager to "look after the dinghy" for a few escudos. They were a lovely bunch of kids. They went to school in two shifts, a morning group and an afternoon group and when we gave them the pens and pencils they had asked for before we left, they were so happy with them.

Sau Nicolau was a beautiful island, clean and well cared for with a very lush interior. Taking the bus right over the mountains to the capital was a treat in itself as you rounded a corner and saw a lush valley unfold.

The capital itself was very small. In fact the biggest town was Tarafal, where we were anchored. One day we walked up the lush valley from the capital to the village of Cachaco, a walk described by my guide book as a 4 km easy walk! Ha - it was easy in the sense that it was along a cobbled track but it was steeply uphill and very hard in the heat even for seasoned walkers like ourselves.

Another day we paid 300 escudos each and went into the lush national park to walk. It was cloudy but that did keep the heat down as it was quite steep. It was also amazing, lush and green and with lots of flowers and cultivated even at height with men transported to the fields by donkey.

Just along the coast from the anchorage was Caberinho, where we saw some amazing rock formations caused by the strong waves crashing against the volcanic shore.

That was the day we met Silva. In a small mountainside village with a tiny shop that doubled as a bar (and the only things we could buy for lunch were home made biscuits and pringles (!!) ) the proprietor heard us speaking English and insisted on buying us a beer. It turns out he had been a sailor on English ships before he retired and he knew Harwich very well. Small world!

We later met another former sailor, Antonio, in another shop/bar in another small village and he insisted on giving us a lift back to Tarafal. Unfortunately he drove like my mother in her later years but luckily he drove very slowly.

The fortnight in Sau Nicolau passed very quickly, with Scruffbag upping his swimming to 4 boat circuits.I had pulled my upper arm muscle on the journey to the Cape Verdes so could not compete.

Still, maybe on the next island.

By the second week far more boats had arrived at the anchorage and there were around 14 boats anchored. This turned out to be rather comforting on the "nights of the big wind". The anchorage had always been prone to the odd strong gusts funnelled down the mountain but on our last Friday the gusts became a big blow and we were unable to get ashore for 3 days. The Friday was the worst with gusts up to 46 knots and a very sleepless night on anchor watch. Luckily we held and we can now say we have truly tested the gear.