Off to the end of the world

Actually to El Hierro --- Before Columbus sailed to America, it was thought that El Hierro was the end of the world and that if you went south you would fall off the edge!

So we left Garachico in very light winds, heading for La Gomera, where we would fill up with diesel and stay for 2 nights before  going to El Hierro for a few weeks. We did not mind motoring as San Sebastian deLa Gomera is only 27 miles from Garrachico and we wanted to get moving. The main was up, the engine on and the autohelm was steering.

Now one thing the Canary Islands are known for is acceleration zones. These are stretches where the wind funnels down valleys or between islands or round headlands. We were coming up to a headland and the wind began to increase, at times getting up to 20 knots so we turned off the engine and sailed under main alone, thinking that it was probably an acceleration zone and would not last. It was very gusty, at times getting to 30 knots and the autohelm was starting to goof out so we took turns hand steering. After about an hour (and once we had rounded the headland and were laying a course for La Gomera) the wind dropped off and we soon had our 5 knots back again. Such fun.

It was good to spend a day in San Sebastion, which has gained a couple of trendy fashion outlets since we were there last December, and it was great to swim off the town beach and to buy gas for only 15 euros. But all good things must come to an end and we were soon up with the dawn and heading to El Hierro, our last Canary Island. We had lots of strong gusts of wind as we set off; they were coming from the mountains of La Gomera. Once we had cleared the island and left the acceleration zone, the wind again dropped to zilch so we had to motor in the hot sun looking back on a view of El Tiede in the morning clouds.

This time we almost caught a fish. Scruffbag was down below resting and I heard the line whirring. I looked round and saw a fish on the end of the line leaping out of the water. I immediately shouted for Scruffbag as I am as much use as a chocolate fireguard where fishing is concerned. Unfortunately, however, it was "the one that got away" as by the time he reeled the line in, the fish had gone.

By late afternoon we were getting close to El Hierro and once again the wind piped up as we entered yet another acceleration zone. We had to keep going until we were due north of La Restinga harbour as there is a reef just outside the entrance. That done, we entered the harbour, to find that Puertos Canarios' booking system had, for the only time in our experience, actually worked and there was a security guard waiting to take our lines. Raoul  dealt with the paperwork, sorted the keys and gave us a bill which was ready prepared for us to pay at the bank after the weekend.

Hello El Hierro