And then Sao Vicente

We left Sao Nicolau  following two big cats, al three of usl heading in the same directio - to Mindelo Sao Vicente. Although we were going to anchor in the bay, Sao Vicente boasts the only (and hence very expensive) marina in the archipeligo. Both the ARC rally and the French Isles De Deux Soleils rally would be in residence so we were expecting a full anchorage.

We had a reef in the main, about 18 knots of wind on the beam and very big seas. I felt very queasy but luckily was not actually sick. At one point, I was doused by a very big wave and had to completely change clothes. We also had to hand steer all the way as Scruffbag had not tightened up the line on the windvane and she refused to steer (beam reaches are never her preferred point of sail in any case  unless the sails are set perfectly).

We arrived in Mindelo and were anchored by 15-45. The anchorage was, as predicted, very busy and we were too late to go ashore and sign in as the office shut at 16-00. The paperwork was duly completed the next day and we were free to explore.

It costs 3000 cape verdean escudes (about £26 ) to tie up the dinghy to the marina pontoon for 18 days but this includes the rubbish collection. Mindelo is far more cosmopolitan than towns on the other islands we have visited and there is a growing middle class, although there is still evidence of poverty. There are lots of colonial buildings and lots of shops and restaurants. There is a great fish market with half a kilo of fresh tuna at 200 eacudos, and a vegetable market and women selling sweet cakes and fish patties they have made at home. Local fishermen regularly fish around the anchored boats for small sardines.

We spent a couple of evenings with Richard and Jane, whom we had met in Sao Nicolau, before they left for the Caribbean. We also met up with Alex, whom we had met in El Hierro and who is heading to Africa. On Scruffbag's birthday we went to Calhau, a small fishing village which boasts a restaurant which only opens on Sunday, plays live music and offers an "all you can eat" Cape Verdean buffet which was truly delicious.

We also managed to get out and get some exercise. The town boasts a lovely white sand beach, which is steeply shelving but good for swimming and we also climbed to the high point of Monte Verde behind Mindelo, which is a national park and offers stunning views of this island and views over the 3 smaller islands between here and Sao Nicolau.

We also visited Baia Das Gatas, a pretty bay with a shallow, sheltered swimming lagoon. However, it was rather too set up for tourists and the one cafe had dirty toilets and charged very high prices.

We wanted to see the island of Santo Antao before we left as it was said to be the most beautiful of the Cape Verdes. We were unable to visit in our own boat as the anchorages are reputedly lacking in shelter so we went on the ferry and hired a car and driver for the day. The island's reputation is well deserved . It is stunning. Photographs just cannot do this verdant, magnificant mountain landscape justice. The island also grows sugar cane and we visited a distillery which produces grogue, the strong spirit of the islands.

So for now we are almost at the end of our travels in the Cape Verdes. Maybe one day we will return and walk the lush mountains and valleys of Santo Antao but for now the compass points to Barbados.