Dominica

The forecast was 15 knots on the beam and what did we get? Well for the first 3 hours we got 15 knots on the beam and an enjoyable sail. However, this is the Caribbean so, of course, after that we got huge gusts forward of the beam, the autopilot couldn't cope. We had to hand steer. We had to put in a second reef. Ah well, at least we didn't ppget wet. We had intended to stay for a few nights in the capital, Roseau, and anchor in Prince Rupert Bay. However, as we sailed into the bay, we noticed a distinct absence of masts and we decided, since it was early in the day, that we would carry on to Portsmouth.

We had been told that boat boys would come out to meet us and our trusty and invaluable guide book written by Charles Doyle, told us that these men had formed an association called Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services and that we should use them should we need help. Sure enough, as we entered the bay we were approached by Albert who was a PAYS member. He asked us if we wanted any tours or taxis and we asked him to wait until we had anchored and then take us by water taxi to clear customs as it was along dinghy ride from the anchorage. This he did and we said we were thinking about a trip up the Indian River in a day or two so he could pop back the next day. The anchorage was very secure as it was patrolled by PAYS boats.

Next day we went ashore to look round the town. Dominica is the poorest of the islands we have visited and it was hit badly by hurricane Maria two years ago. A lot of rebuilding is taking place but signs of the devastation still remain and many of the houses still have roof coverings stamped with the words, "US AID".

Dominica is also an amazingly beautiful island with  a hoot lake, sulphur pools, rainforest, mountains and rivers. We took a trip up Indian River (a mangrove swamp where we saw iguanas, fish, birds, land crabs etc. with a verygood guide

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A few days later we walked up a beautiful trail to the source of the Indian river. The walk was stunning with lots of flowers around. However, we were joined by a man in his seventies wearing Wellington boots and carrying a wrapped up machete with his dog. He talked to us,shared our water and then walked along behind us. We slowed down and let him pass then stopped for a picnic. As we were eating our sandwiches he appeared again from behind. Odd, we thought, but we offered him a sandwich, which he ate. He Spielberg little. We then walked on and again he followed us. When we reached the source of the river we turned back. He also turned back. Scruffy asked him What He was doing but he just mumbled. It was weird, not threatening but weird. When we got to the main road we turned towards town and so did he but then we came to a turbo g and he said"See you" and turned off. In hindsight we feel he probably just wanted company but it was disconcerting.

We had a great time in Dominica and went to the PAYS barbecue on the Sunday night for all we could eat food and all you could drink rum punch, very enjoyable

We also visited the nearby fort and walked along trails through the forest, giving us great views of the surrounding coast. Dominica was certainly a firm favourite and there was so much we didn't have time to see that we would love to return and see the boiling lake and the sulphur spring vs,to name but two attractions.

But we needed to head north and and Guadeloupe beckoned.